🍲 Autumn in Yamagata means “Imoni Party”! Miso pork vs. soy-sauce beef — the eternal debate, and both are the right answer.

It’s a tradition where people gather at riverbanks or parks, cook taro-based ingredients in a big pot, and share the meal together. Families, friends, and coworkers all come together to enjoy this custom, which has taken root in the hearts of the people as an autumn hallmark.

And at an Imoni Party, there’s almost always one topic that stirs up excitement: “Miso pork or soy-sauce beef?” This difference in seasoning is a classic “relatable debate” for the people of Yamagata.

The origins of the Imoni Party

There are several theories about the roots of the Imoni Party, but two stand out: one is the Mogami River boat transport culture of the Edo period, and the other is the outdoor pot dishes served as a celebration after farm work.

In the Edo period, the Mogami River served as an important transport route for rice and safflower bound for Edo and Osaka. It is said that at the time of departure or arrival, boatmen and merchants would gather on the riverbank around a pot to share a meal and show appreciation for their work. Autumn also marked the season of rice harvesting, when local people would come together on the riverbanks, cooking taro and other familiar ingredients to share. The riverbanks offered wide open spaces, with plenty of firewood and water. From this, the culture of the “Imoni Party” gradually took root.

Inland Flavor: Soy Sauce × Beef

In Yamagata City and the Murayama region, which are inland areas, Imoni is typically made with a soy sauce base combined with beef.

• Since the Edo period, in the Yonezawa Domain there was a custom of eating beef as “medicine meat,” which helped establish a strong beef-eating culture.

• And this combined with the soy sauce culture that was brought in from Osaka and Kyoto through river transport.

In this way, the simple yet flavorful style of “soy sauce + beef + taro” spread, and it has now become synonymous with inland Imoni. The clean soy sauce flavor blends with the sweetness of beef fat, creating a taste that goes perfectly with rice.

Shōnai Flavor: Miso × Pork

On the other hand, in Shōnai (Tsuruoka and Sakata) on the Sea of Japan side, the standard is a miso base with pork.

• Through maritime trade on the Kitamaebune ships, large quantities of miso were brought in from Kyoto and the Hokuriku region.

• On farms, it was common to raise pigs, making pork a familiar and reliable source of protein.

The rich flavor of miso combined with the savoriness of pork made it a hearty feast for the people of Shōnai, where winters are harsh. Its bold taste warms the body and remains delicious even after it cools down.

Why did the flavors diverge?

“Why are they so different even though it’s the same Yamagata Prefecture?” The answer lies in differences in trade routes and everyday life.

• **Inland areas** received soy sauce and Kansai culture through Mogami River transport, and had a tradition of raising cattle → leading to beef-and-soy-sauce Imoni.

• **Shōnai region** received miso culture via the Kitamaebune ships, and it was easier for farmers to raise pigs → leading to pork-and-miso Imoni.

Furthermore, the way people lived through the winter also had an influence.

• In the inland areas, it was easy to make large quantities in big pots, and the light soy sauce flavor was especially valued.

• In Shōnai, preservation and nutrition were prioritized, so the rich miso flavor was chosen.

In this way, each region developed an Imoni that suited its way of life. River transport vs. maritime trade, beef vs. pork, soy sauce vs. miso—these contrasts shaped the background of today’s “two great styles of Imoni.”

The Eternal Debate — But Both Are Right

Every Yamagata local has, at least once, gotten caught up in the debate over “Which one is the real Imoni?” Some insist, “It’s not Imoni unless it’s beef and soy sauce!” while others claim, “No, in Shōnai, pork and miso is the true tradition!” Both sides are passionate, and year after year, this debate is repeated with laughter among the people of the prefecture.

But in truth, both are correct. Differences in history and lifestyle shaped each flavor, enriching Yamagata’s food culture. In fact, the very act of debating has become one of the joys of the Imoni Party, reflecting the depth of the tradition itself.

Stay at Watausagi and enjoy an Imoni Party!

At Guesthouse *Watausagi* in Tsuruoka City, you can experience the unique lifestyle of the Shōnai region.

You can enjoy Imoni at nearby restaurants, or pick up an “Imoni Set” at the supermarket and cook it yourself in Watausagi’s kitchen—this way, you can try both the inland and Shōnai styles. What’s more, you can even hold your own Imoni Party under the open sky on the banks of the Aka River, just a short walk away, together with family and friends.

Through connecting with fellow guests and local residents, we hope you’ll enjoy Yamagata’s Imoni culture on a deeper level.

Summary: To truly experience Yamagata’s Imoni, you have to taste both styles.

The Imoni Party is a crystallization of Yamagata’s proud food and culture. Inland “soy-sauce beef” and Shōnai “miso pork” are both authentic styles shaped by their regional histories.

If you visit Yamagata on your travels, be sure to try both styles side by side. By savoring the differences in flavor while reflecting on the history and lifestyle behind them, you’ll find that Imoni is not just a dish—it’s a true cultural experience of Yamagata.

Are you on Team Miso Pork or Team Soy-Sauce Beef? Let us know in the comments!

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